For all its seven-star hotels, gargantuan malls and man-made islands visible from space, the most startling thing about Dubai is its age, or lack of it. Circa 1970, the city was little more than a sand pit—there was no official flag, no roads to speak of, very few buildings (let alone anything over 50 floors) and certainly no tourists. But since the formation of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) in 1971, this piece of scrubby desert on the Arabian Gulf has been transformed into one of the world's richest and fastest-growing economies.

Boasting the cockiness that comes with youth, the trade-driven city continues to develop at a breakneck pace, and a citywide army of cranes keeps the skyline in constant flux. New hotels, office blocks and residential areas are thrown up almost overnight and yet are still unable to sate the waves of tourists and expat workers that continue to flood into town.

Capitalizing on its unique location as the crossroads between Asia, Europe and Africa, Dubai has grabbed the position of trade, commercial and financial hub for the region. On the outskirts of the troubled Middle East—Iran and Saudi Arabia are near neighbors—Dubai is an oasis of stability. Free from political upheaval, the city actively courts the world's businesses through cluster concepts. Services zones such as Dubai Media City, Dubai Internet City and the Knowledge Village offer tax breaks and 100 percent ownership (outside of the free zones, businesses need a local partner). The age of pearling and black gold is long over, and now international media ventures and Dubaian dotcoms fill the city's coffers.

The wooing of the tourist dollar has been just as aggressive and even more successful. Despite lacking any deep-rooted public culture or heritage and suffering from overpowering heat and humidity during the summer months of May through September, the city attracted more than five million visitors last year and plans to double that number by 2010. Its success lies in appealing to the basics: sun, sea and shopping, with lavish creature comforts on offer at every turn. Immaculate five-star hotels with white-sand beaches line the coast of Jumeirah, more than 30 shopping malls satisfy retail therapists, and the annual Dubai Shopping Festival in January and February brings in an average of 2.6 million spenders who leave some US$2.5 billion lighter. Add to that a liberated and bustling entertainment scene and top-notch cuisine, and the appeal becomes evident.

An astoundingly safe city, Dubai is all but free of crime, and there has been no reported terrorist activity. Police are armed and can often be seen patrolling the roads in well-marked cars, but spend the majority of time dealing with traffic offenses. The police headquarters (941 4 269 4848) is based opposite Al Mullah Plaza in Deira. In case of an emergency, dial 999 for police, 998 for ambulance or 997 for the fire brigade.

How long can Dubai's growth continue? Doom mongerers talk of bubbles popping and white elephants being exposed, but the truth is that Dubai, Inc., is working and looks set for a gloriously profitable future. The city's PR machine has generated such a global buzz that travelers who would never have previously considered a Middle Eastern winter break are now flocking to the City of Gold in droves. The full occupancy of many hotels and the increasingly jammed-up status of Dubai's road system testify to a city running at 110 percent.

Getting around
As you'd expect from a city kick-started by oil, the car is king in Dubai. Although buses are cheap and frequent, they are rarely used by Western visitors—and with the proposed 37-station metro monorail not due to open until 2008, visitors tend to either hire cars or hop into one of the omnipresent metered and inexpensive taxicabs. The downside to this autophilia is near constant congestion, particularly at rush hour and on the city's two bridges, Garhoud and Maktoum. Plans are afoot to introduce a third bridge and a bypass to nearby Sharjah, but until then, patience is of the essence—and if your trip involves cabbing over the Creek, then bring a book and allow yourself plenty of time. Another hazard is the rather erratic driving habits of the average Dubaian. The UAE has one of the world's highest death tolls per capita from road accidents, and it's not hard to see why. Few people adhere to traffic regulations, and speeding, undertaking and tailgating all occur regularly. All cars sold in the UAE let out an audio warning when speeds exceed the 120 km/h (75 mph) speed limit, but this does little to deter the country's gas-happy drivers: Expect most journeys to have a soundtrack of constant beeping. The government seems to be taking some steps to curb the problem, with regular road-safety awareness campaigns and the installation of speed cameras on most main roads, but with only fines rather than bans as a deterrent, the highways remain Dubai's biggest danger and annoyance.

Restaurants
Eating is the Emirates' favorite pastime, and whether you feel like Filipino or fusion, Lebanese or Lucknowi, you'll find a restaurant catering to your tastes. Due to licensing restrictions, if you wish to wine as well as dine, you'll have to eat in one of the hotels. Happily, restauranteurs have strived to create intimate, exciting eateries within hotels that will soon make you forget their corporate confines. A good starting point is The Souk Madinat (971 4 366 8888, www.madinatjumeirah.com), a sprawling rabbit warren of restaurants, bars and shops. Popular haunts in the complex include The Noodle House, a lively Asian joint; canalside Chinese Zheng He's; and Pierchic, an out-to-sea fish restaurant on a custom-built wharf. If you're after a taste of opulence, the Burj Al Arab's Al Mahara (971 4 301 7648) is excellent, extortionate and accessible by a mock submarine. British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay's Verre (971 4 227 1111) offers the best French fine dining in town. For a dry night of Middle Eastern cuisine, you can't beat Fatafeet (971 4 397 9222), which boasts cheap, delicious Egyptian food and prime people-watching by the Creek.

Hotels
If you're in town for business, chances are you'll want to hole up in the central hotels of Bur Dubai or Garhoud, rather than the shoreline suntraps of Al Sufouh. In Bur Dubai, the skyscraper-heavy Sheikh Zayed Road boasts a cluster of business-minded properties. The Shangri La (971 343 8888, www.shangri-la.com, from Dhs1,800) with its minimalist chic and excellent facilities, is a great option for those who can afford it, as is Emirates Towers (971 4 330 0000, www.emiratestowershotel.com, from Dhs2,400), the most iconic building on the strip. Two cheaper locations on the strip are the Ibis (971 4 332 4444, www.ibishotel.com, from Dhs295) and the neighboring Novotel (971 4 332 0000, www.novotel.com, from Dhs550): Both are clean, fuss-free and functional. Other options away from the Sheikh Zayed highway are the Grand Hyatt (971 4 317 1234, www.dubai.grand.hyatt.com, from Dhs1,800), a grandiose, zebra-striped colossus that contains its own lobby-based rainforest; and the Hilton Dubai Creek (971 4 227 1111, www.hilton.com, from Dhs1,000) a chic marriage of chrome and steel designed by Carlos Ott (of Opéra de la Bastille fame).

Time off
Dubai boasts a partially deserved reputation as a shopper's paradise. True enough, the town does offer more than its fair share of label-pushing malls and shopping centers–—the most popular being BurJuman (971 4 352 0222, www.burjuman.com) and City Centre (971 4 295 1010, www.deiracitycentre.com)—but the prices are not dissimilar to any U.S. or European city, and there is precious little local fare available. A visit to the bargain Karama shopping district, with its knockoff watches and Kristian Dior (sic) handbags, is interesting, if only to sharpen your haggling skills. A far better way to spend your time is exploring the bustle of life by the water in the Old Souk of Bur Dubai before hiring an abra (small boat) for about Dhs50 and enjoying a personal tour of Dubai's Creek. Alternatively, visit Vu's bar on the Emirates Towers' 51st floor (971 4 330 0000, www.jumeirahinternational.com) and marvel at the view, or—if you have a day to spare—get thrown around the dunes in a 4WD vehicle as you explore desert landscapes on one of the Desert Rangers' (971 4 340 2408) organized tours.

Getting there
Dubai International Airport (switchboard 971 4 224 5555, flight information 971 4 216 6666, www.dubaiairport.com), one of the most highly acclaimed airports in the world, is currently undergoing an elaborate and extravagant expansion program that includes a new terminal (the airport's third) exclusively for Emirates Airline flights.

Almost all major airlines arrive at the main Sheikh Rashid Terminal 1. Here the Dubai Duty Free (971 4 224 5004) is the last port of call for the purchase of alcohol before entering Dubai's hotel-only licensing restrictions. The airport's facilities include shops, Internet and banking services, restaurants, business facilities and a tourist information booth. The smaller Terminal 2 caters largely to cargo, charter flights and commercial airlines from Iran and the CIS countries. There is also a VIP terminal known as Al Majlis.

The airport is in Garhoud, about five kilometers southeast of the city center. If you're staying at one of the big international hotels, chances are you'll get a complimentary limousine or shuttle bus transfer to and from the airport. Otherwise, taxis are the most convenient and practical form of transport. There is a Dhs20 surcharge on pickup from the terminal (instead of the usual Dhs3 in town). It takes about 10 minutes to get to Bur Dubai, and Jumeirah and the hotel beach resorts are about 30 minutes away.

Marcus Webb is an editor with Time Out Dubai and Time Out Abu Dhabi.